Sunday, April 24, 2016

N is for Nanticoke


N is for Nanticoke (click here for map). 
The drive to Nanticoke was definitely road trip worthy, and “keeping my eye on the prize” (a small beach that is rumored to be littered with something I collect – no, not shells) was worth the 2 ½ hour drive.  Nanticoke is quite a beautiful, peaceful place with not much civilization in sight. 

Nanticoke is an unincorporated community and census designated place in Wicomico County.  The town has a population of 227, and encompasses a land area of 2.59 square miles and a water area of .01 square miles.  According to the Maryland Historical Trust State Historic Sites Inventory Form, the community dates back to the late 1600s.
The town was named for the Nanticoke Indians.  The first contact with the Nanticoke Tribe was recorded by the British Captain John Smith in 1608.  Four Indians who had been fishing approached Smith's ship in a canoe.  Smith convinced them he came in friendship and they returned with twenty villagers. Food, water, and furs were exchanged for gifts the English brought.  Several Nanticokes agreed to serve as guides for Smith to continue his exploration of the Nanticoke River.  Smith described the Nanticoke as "the best merchants of all."  Incidentally, in Algonquian (the common Indian language of Northeastern tribes), the word Nanticoke is translated from the original Nantaquak meaning, “The Tidewater People” or “People of the Tidewaters.” 
The headquarters for the Nanticoke Indian Association is located in Millsboro, Delaware, which in 1921 was formed and granted non-profit status.  Tribally owned lands include three properties, the Nanticoke Indian Center, the Nanticoke Indian Museum and a 16-acre tract donated by “Hudson and Schell, LLC.”  The Center houses the tribal office - a location for tribal meetings and also serves as a community center. 

The Nanticoke Museum was opened in 1984 so the Association could collect and display items from their Native American heritage.  The tribe holds an annual powwow the weekend after Labor Day.  The two day powwow attracts tribes from up and down the east coast, as well as nearly 30,000 non-Indian friends.  
When I got to Nanticoke, I went straight to Roaring Point Park I began my journey early enough in the day so I could be on the beach in time for the Nanticoke River’s low tide.  I was anxious to add a few things to my “summertime obsession” – the “prize” I was talking about earlier.  Sea glass!  I read the beach at Roaring Point Park was popular with sea glass hunters, and I was hopeful getting to the beach first thing in the morning would land me a stash (or at least a few pieces).   
At Tip of Peninsula Looking at Shore
I found I was the only one on the beach the entire time I was visiting.  The beach was only 0.8 miles long and I combed it for over an hour.  Additionally, I had the opportunity to walk out to Roaring Point.  If it had been high tide, I would not have been able to walk out to the very tip of that peninsula. 
Initially, I only found the “Wannabe Sea Glass” – the sea glass that washes ashore too early in its life hoping it could be added to someone’s collection.  Ha!  To the glass:  "Patience, young grasshopper" - 1970s Television Series Kung Fu.  Back into the water you go!  
Sadly, the longer I spent on the beach I came to the realization I was not going to be bringing home any treasure.  Just as I was ready to throw in the towel, I looked down and there it was!!!!  A piece of pale green sea glass (which I was hoping to find as it is my favorite color) was looking up at me in all its glory.  Ah!  Life is good!  With my newly acquired loot in my pocket, I decided to leave the beach and continue with the exploration of Nanticoke.
The Roaring Point Park Waterfront Campground was next on my list to visit and it was right around the corner from the park.  According to the campground's history, the property dates back to the 1700s.  In addition to Soldiers camping on the water's edge during the war, there  was the Nanticoke Steamboat that operated off the wharf area of the camp, which transported people and commerce trade to Baltimore and other places.  The pirate Bluebeard is said to have travelled the waters of the Nanticoke River.  Finally, there were the Nanticoke Indians living along the river protecting and growing their families. 
Unfortunately, I could not enter the campground as it was gated.  I was hoping to tour the campground, and to also get a bite to eat at the campground’s General Store – oh, well.  From the fence, the campground looked nice.  Several RVs and campers were already set-up with the occupants milling about the grounds.  I was able to drive on a road outside the perimeter of the campground, which led me down to the water.  When I got there, I found a few people standing on the beach fishing.  I asked one of the fishermen what he was fishing for and if he caught anything.  He told me, “Rockfish and White Perch” and “nothing was biting”.  I thanked him, wished him luck, and left to find something to eat.  
Wade's Repairs

As I could not access the General Store, I thought I would stop by one of the two businesses in town – “Wade’s Repairs” (auto garage) and the Post Office.  Since the Post Office was out the question for food, I headed over to “Wade’s Repairs.”  As you might have guessed, I was only able to purchase a bag of snacks and a drink for my lunch.  Enough to take the edge off, it was delicious all the same, and I was off to my next point of interest – the Nanticoke Harbor Marina.
On the corner of the street to get to the marina, there was a “Nanticoke Foods” sign complete with two large arrows pointing in the same direction - one for “Nanticoke Foods LLC” and the other for the marina.  Nanticoke Foods LLC was not listed as an eating establishment in Nanticoke when I was conducting my research, so I wondered what it was. 
When I got to the marina, I saw a dilapidated building located next to the docks.  This “could” have been a restaurant – I was not sure as there was not a visible sign on the building. I decided to check out the marina first.  There were well-maintained slips, a small office building, a nice causeway out to the Nanticoke River, and a few people were backing boat trailers down the ramps to put their boats in the water.  There were also some people in the pavilion, a person walking along the jetty, and an elderly gentleman fishing.  
The fisherman was fishing directly across the causeway from the Nanticoke Foods LLC building, so I walked over to him and asked him about the building.  He told me it was once a factory, which closed about 21 years ago.  Once a Wicomico County seafood plant, it closed after more than 70 years in the industry, putting dozens of employees out of work.  The company dates to 1935 as H.B. Kennerly & Son Inc., an oyster production and distribution plant supplying frozen and fresh mollusks nationwide.  
Nanticoke Foods LLC
The fisherman mentioned he would walk along the jetty (when he was quite a bit younger) and smell fish cooking in the building.  I told him we had a place back home, down the street from a marina, that would smoke fish and the smell was heavenly.  The fisherman said the smell coming from the factory was NOT heavenly!  I could not help but laugh at his response.  I
Jetty
then asked him what he was fishing for and if he was having any luck.  He told me he was fishing for White Perch and he already caught two for the day. 
He told me he did not come to this fishing spot every day, though – he just went where his fishing pole took him!  We then exchanged some fishing stories; about the ones that got away!  I thanked him for his time, wished him luck for future catches, and got back on the road to go home.  
Driving home, I thought about my day and how pleased I was to have chosen to visit this quiet, unassuming town with its “loud” past.  Just like the town, I was able to be silent and just "be".  I looked at the piece of sea glass and realized not only had “I” found a treasure, Captain John Smith did, too.